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Livery Society Southwark Walk

A Stroll or Splosh through Southwark

A guided historical walk of Dickensian London

A party of 23 Liverymen and guests congregated at The Ship, at the north end of Borough High Street. Thus sustained and armed with umbrellas (foreboding weather loomed) we set foot into Dickensian times with our knowledgeable guide Stephen Humphrey.
 

Our first stop was at the site of the detested Kings Bench Debtor’s prison where Southwark had once bordered with Surrey. One of a number in the area, they were profit-making establishments and inmates were obliged to pay their Marshall or ‘chum’ friend for the pleasure of being there.  A release fee was also charged and prisoners unable to do so remained imprisoned indefinitely or until the fee had been paid.  This set the scene for our next stop, Marshalsea Prison, sited adjacent to the church of St George on Borough High Street. All that remains now is part of the prison wall but it was inspiring to imagine that the prison had played a significant part in Dickens’ life.  His father John was incarcerated there with his wife and young family for a debt of £40. Charles Dickens aged 12 was obliged to work in a ‘blacking’ factory (making boot polish) in order to keep the family and pay for his father’s prison expenses. This experience greatly influenced his writing, one example is the character of Mr. Micawber in David Copperfield, who was sent to Marshalsea Prison, is said to have been based on his father.
 

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St. George's Church

And so into St George’s Church, rebuilt in 1746 on a site of an earlier model dating from the 12th century. An elegant building, the galleried interior aptly decorated with many Livery Company Arms.  It was a popular place in its day for ‘irregular’ marriages, which had to be clandestine for various reasons. General Monck (founder of the Coldstream Guards) was married there. He was largely responsible for the restoration of the Monarchy (Charles11) in 1660 and of interest to the Feltmakers because of the existence of a Delftware charger in the Victoria & Albert Museum which bears the Feltmakers’ crest centered above a crudely painted portrait of the great General. Why did he feel the need to be married secretly………?  -   29 May 1660 celebrated the Restoration and was known as Oak Apple Day.  It was therefore appropriate that the Royal Oak was so conveniently placed near the church. On our way to that lively and welcoming hostelry, the heavens opened, down came the rain with tremendous force and up went the umbrellas.
 

Not far from the pub lies Trinity Square.  Designed by Walter Bedford, built between 1824 –32 and the majority still owned by the Corporation of Trinity House. A lovely square of great proportions with a central church, renamed the Henry Wood Hall and now practice home for the London Symphony and the London Philharmonic orchestras.

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King Alfred being serenaded by the music from Henry Wood Hall
A statue of King Alfred, founder of the Navy stands outside. The rain continued, but we stoically continued on to the old Surrey County Gaol, Horsemonger Lane where Dickens had been part of a huge crowd of 100,000 witnessing the public hanging in 1849 of Frederick and Maria Manning. It brought out the crowds: man and wife hanged side by side on the gaol roof for the murder (for money) of her erstwhile lover. Executed by William Calcroft, a long serving hangman renowned for his ‘short drops’, where by most of his victims were strangled to death.  On that note, supper at the George Inn beckoned as the rain continued relentlessly.
 

My thanks to all who braved the elements and, again, to Stephen Humphrey for a most informative and interesting evening.                                                               

 

Jane Way

 
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